Delhi & Agra

A motherland I can not leave behind, a country full of love, hospitality and a heap of traffic.

Captains Log Day 16 – 09/01/16 1:44pm. Qantas

Just like that the Captain is completing his travels once again, leaving his final destination, a special one at that. His Motherland. This one wasn’t going to be an easy one conquer.

The Admiral and Captain waited about 2 hours in the confines of the Airport waiting room in Dubai international Airport, surrounded by a vast population of travelers. The overpopulated waiting room was only signs of what awaited us after our 4 hour flight.

4 hours so we thought. After our 2-hour wait, we were boarded onto a transport bus that took about 20 minutes to reach the plane, at points I had started believing that we were going to be driving from Dubai to India. Unfortunately, as interesting as that story would have been – that was not the case. Although more excitement was to come, as once we boarded the flight, we had not been given permission to take of, leading to another hour, this time in a much more confined space.

Finally, we were up in the air. Indian Standard Time. We sored high over the desert once again. I wrote my blog about the Portuguese adventures and tarts.. oh heaven.

We landed in New Delhi not too much later, seemed that we had waited the same amount of time as the flight took. We gathered our bags and headed off to look for a cab. With ease we reached our destination – said to be Close to the airport it was 25 minutes away, which reflects the size of the nations capital.

The captain was lucky, he had a comrade in Australia, General T who had allowed the captain and the admiral stay at his barracks in Delhi. We arrived and left our bags in the place, soon after the captain’s cousin and his family arrived to great the admiral and I.
The Captains cousin, who happens to be a real Colonel in the Indian Army, decided its best to take the captain and Admiral to his place, for dinner and drinks. The night concluded to a quiet one (even though both the Captain and Admiral felt pretty tipsy at the end of it) as we caught up and had a few drinks and a lovely dinner with cousins, nieces and the Admiral.

The second day commenced with us waking up much later than expected, we had a few things planned for the day. The captain had to go on some family duties and visit his grandmother, as the Admiral went to Cousin Colonels office to spend the day. Both these activities went pretty uneventful, aside from the bucket loads of Delhi Traffic. I had a successful rendezvous with my lovely grandmother and my little cousins – who are not that little anymore. After visiting m grandmother, I stopped by General T’s place and organized a Maid to come in and do some dusting, since nobody was living there the place had given into the Delhi dust storms and accumulated a bit of dust.

Cleaning completed and time slipping past, I met up with the Admiral and we decided to head to the shopping city of Delhi – Connaught place and do some shopping, taking the Metro (train) we embarked our journey, only arriving an hour later (did I mention the sheer size of Delhi)- we had an hour and we used it wisely, grabbing 2 jeans, a pair of chinos and having the famous Depauls Iced coffee, our mini escapade was complete. Our hour journey back was entertaining as we discussed all the shopping we could have done if we had more time. Exhausted we had a feat awaiting us at the colonel’s place, with a delectable chicken curry served with whiskey – feeling pampered and once again tipsy we hit the sack. Our friends were to arrive tomorrow – Our good friends, all the way from Strayaa!.. Lieutenant Arthur and Second Lieutenant Alisha. This could only mean trouble.

Waking up to a message that the Lieutenant’s flights were delayed was a relief, without realizing it, the captain had consumed a few too many the night before.  The extra 2 hours sleep was well accepted, but it only mean that the days activities had to be condensed into less time.

Grabbing the team from the airport and we were off, pleasantries and some stories shared in the cab, first up we went to Akshardham, a hindu temple established by a Gujrati hindu sect. unfortunately the cameras and phones were taken off us so we couldn’t take photos, an interesting story happened to admiral in the temple, however it is not to share in this forum. The next few hours we walked admiring the temples beauty, we watched a live show on its history and went on a boat ride exploring India and its achievements. The plan was to push the admiral into the water in the boat ride, however she strategically positioned herself away from the edges, plan foiled. Quickly hustling the next destination (but not too quickly as the Lieutenant and I were amazed by 2 weasels we saw running around.. WEASELS ARE COOL) which was the Baha’I Lotus temple – a temple shaped like a lotus. When we arrived, this was shut. We did however take some photos of it from outside.

Once again with time slipping by it was time to eat, what better place to enjoy Delhi then to head to the ancient, overpopulated and “real” Delhi area of Chandi Chowk – Wikipedia defines Chandni Chowk as “Chandni Chowk is one of the oldest and busiest markets in Old Delhi, India”. Arriving to this place was a culture shock to the Admiral and the squad. One word to describe this would be “hectic”. People hustling everywhere, with something triggering every sense.
To get to the desired destination, the famous Kabab place Karims (featured in Time Magazine, as one of the most famous and oldest places in Asia), we had to take a mode of transport other than car, as a car could not fit the narrow streets of the neighborhood.
We hailed a transport that I had not seen before – it looked like an offspring of an Auto (TukTuk) and a Rikshaw, we nicknamed it ‘the machine’. The Machine took on the traffic as it weaved through the traffic in confidence, the passengers however fearing for their lives at every point of the journey. The Driver along the way was throwing insults as well as receiving them, one entertaining and less vulgar one being “you drive like a corpse”.

We reached the infamous Karims and were NOT disappointed, devouring servings upon servings of the famous kebabs, our life threatening journey had been worthwhile. Next up the Famous Chandi Chowk desert, the Falooda. We found another “Machine” like transport and were on our way, this time a little more eventful, as we had a few accidents on the way, our driver managed to hit a scooter, another machine, a ricksaw and to top it off a kid on a cycle. Abuses were hurled but the show went on, as if hitting each other was a norm in this crazy place. Safely arriving at the Famous desert place, both the Lieutenant shyed away as it contained Ice and Milk, whist the brave Admiral and I devoured one falooda, it was just as good as I remember as a kid – delicious, no wonder the place is over 100 years old.  Bellies full and the Delhi initiation complete we ventured back to the Car.

The last destination for the night was a club that a friend of mine partly owned in one of the clubbing districts of Delhi. Without having enough time to head back home and get ready we decided to just get changed in the car and head straight to the club. Knowing Delhi distances going home and heading back would take forever.

Ready we entered the busy part of the clubbing district, I was to meet my friend at the time, however he had to fly urgently to china, unfortunately I missed him. He is a bit like my idol so I was a little sad. He helped remove that sadness by opening up the VIP area for us at his Club “Moonshine”. We walked in thinking its Tuesday – the place will be empty, however to our surprise the place was PUMPING! Crowded and with an awesome DJ we navigated our way to our private area, which had its own bar and table service. This was going to be a bug night.. 2 long island ice teas and 5 large Grey Goose and Sodas later the night was getting to be a blurr. We left as the cops rocked up to shut the place down – it was past curfew, which meant it was LATE. As we walked to the car a group of guys were singing OZZY OZZY OI we joined in – turns our 2 of them were from Sydney.. we danced with them on the street drunkenly for a while before we decided we needed to get home

It was 2 am – we had to leave Delhi for Agra at 7 – we were very very drunk.
Silently we drove to General T’s Place. Stumbling in, we showered, packed everything, although the night is a blur I do remember the admiral falling asleep in her suitcase to which I said “What are you doing” – passed out only to be woken 3 hours later, extremely hungover/ drunk we boarded our luggage into the car. We got ready for our 3-hour journey to Agra this was going to be #painful.

Painful is an understatement, the Captain drew the short straw and had to sit in front. The three from the squad falling asleep in the back. Dozing in and out of sleep myself I woke to see that the driver was having a MICRO NAP! Freaked out I woke up the admiral and we started talking to him – he said he wasn’t sleeping. From this point it was the Captians duty to stay awake and guard.

In the journey I caught the driver twice more, before I instructed him to stop, fed him, made him have tea and called his boss to complain. Awkwardly the boss told me “He said he wasn’t sleeping” to which all I could say was “ok” although the squad has seen him sleeping.Not any sooner could Agra arrive, and due to our lost time for stops and lunch we rushed to the Taj and Red Fort. One other of the captain’s cousin is a senior Cyber Security expert in the Agra Police, since he heard I was going to the Taj, he had organized a police escort to lead us the whole way. Shortly after entering Agra a police officer called me and asked me to come to the station to meet, from there he let us to the Taj in a Shuttle service, right up to the gates. From there we took a tour guide and explored one of the 7 wonders of the world.

The tour of Taj was beautiful, the incomparable insignia that the mad made marvel left on our brain was forever to be remembered. Taj glimmering and the history lesson complete, we headed off to the second best offering of history – the Red fort, here we learnt of the Mughal rulings of India, ancient warfare and the mindset of ‘no expense spared’. The Lieutenant and captain were more interested in the 352 mistresses the king had and the royal fun times. Completing these marvels, we headed to the hotel to check in.

The accommodation organized was a nice hotel in the center of Agra city, it was clean and newly constructed. Just as we checked in my cousin dropped in and swopped the admiral and myself and took us on a tour to meet my scattered family around Agra – it was phenomenal. The love and caring I felt, it was as if I had never left India, I really miss the Tandon Clan. Full of gratitude and love we got dropped back at the hotel, where we had a beer, grabbed some dinner and called it a early night as the second part of the historical tour awaited the next day, although the drama continued into the night as the Admiral had been struck by the Delhi belly, the night was full of vomiting and queasiness for the Admiral.

The next morning we headed for an older relic than the Red Fort Fatehpur Sikri – Wikipedia time again – “Fatehpur Sikri is a city in the Agra District of Uttar Pradesh, founded in1569 by the Emperor, Akbar, and served as the capital of the Mughal Empire from 1571 to 1585. After his military After victories over Chittor and Ranthambore, Akbar decided to shift his capital from Agra to a new location 23 miles (37 km) W.S.W on the Sikri ridge, to honour the Sufi saint Salim Chishti”. This beautiful historic monument was also the home to Salim Chisti Mosque, famous for making wishes come true “It is believed that by offering prayers at this mazar whatever one wishes will be fulfilled. There is also a ritual of tying a thread at the marble windows of this Dargah in order to have one’s wishes fulfilled.”

We arrived and started being hassled by beggers for tours etc. we declined saying Nahin Nahin and which from the admiral mouth sounded like a horse NAW NAW! We jumped in a Auto (TukTuk) and headed up to the palace – surprisingly and from nowhere a beggar jumped on too! Begging as he was hanging from the side of the Auto… I was a bit “WTF!!!”
We toured the beautiful palace and visited the Salim Chisti mosque in which we made our wishes. It was a very spiritual experience we all felt a little overwhelmed, finally we were taken and sat besides some Sufi singers as they sang religious songs to Allah. Once again the experience was overwhelming

We left a little bit of us behind as we left Fathepur Sikri and headed back to Agra to see the last piece of our historical voyage – Sikandra, The Tomb of Akbar the Great. Taking another tour guide we witnessed where the great Mughal emperor had been buried and we paid our respects. Finishing up we headed to the grba some missed western food at Pizza Hut and then to the hotel, were we rested for a while before getting ready for dinner with my family.

The last night in Agra, We visited a much loved temple and then went to my family home in Agra for a huge feast that my cousin’s wife had prepared. To build up an appetite I took the squad of a tour of my mother house – it comprises of about 32 bedrooms (not a typo 32 is correct) a mansion in all rights. The squad shocked by the place. Finally, we sat with my loving family and ate and talked. Honestly a huge experience for me as I had not seen them in 8 years. It Was lovely and the hospitality just like family. It felt like home. After only scratching the surface of the meal, having a fantastic conversation with my niece and hearing my other talented nephew play an amazing solo on the piano we had to bid farewell. Hugs and love to all.

Next morning it was time to head back to Delhi, and in particular to meet my very good friends in Gurgoan. It was also to be our last night in India. After having some breakfast at the hotel we left, nice and early to miss the traffic, this time our driver well rested we imagined on reaching on time. There however was a heap of FOG. Not the normal kid you see here, but A LOT of fog – you could not see further than 10 meters in front in the car.
Slowly driving we got to the toll point were a huge line had formed – turns out the road was closed as there had been a 7 car accident which left 25 people dead. We waited patiently and, it was an hour later that traffic started moving again. Along the way we saw 7 more accidents on the side of the road. The fog had set – visibility lower than ever.

Arriving at Gurgaon the Lieutenant was exhausted and vowed not to get back into the car. We met with w of my very good friends, one of which I had not seen in over 6 years, she had not changed and was as lovely as ever. It was fantastic to meet both of them as we went to a steak hose to have lunch – chosen by the lieutenant as he saw beef on the menu. Turned out to be buffalo. The conversation was extremely engaging we spoke about work, life, travels and how different things were now. It was heartwarming to see both of them, and once again it felt like I was always in India.

It was time to split ways with my friends, as the Admiral and Captain had to venture back into Delhi to pick up the last bag and to return General T’s Keys to his relative. Leaving the lieutenants behind with one of my friends we headed off to tackle the traffic.

Without boring you with our boring journey through Delhi, we returned the keys and headed back to Gurgoan, as our final night would be spent with a friend.
Completing 12 hours cooped up in the car we finally got back and unloaded our bags into my friend’s fathers BEAUTIFUL house, I also got to meet my friends husband for the fist time, who turned out to be as lovely as her and a total champ.

Dumping our bags and changing into something more comfortable, we got ready as the night was not over. My Friend had organized an dinner and drinks at a bar for us, we headed over and were treated to an fantastic meal and once again great conversation. I also introduce the lieutenant to Old Monk Rum, which went down a treat. Chowing down till our bellies went into overtime, the night was complete.
We headed home, where we sat and went over the wedding albums (a wedding I shamefully missed) we spoke till late night. Once again the hospitality was one to admire.

Saying goodbye and waking up early were both very tough. As the lieutenant’s flight left before mine he awoke before me and before he left he gave me a big hug! It will be the last time I see them, for a while as they is embark on a London adventure. Our alarm went off an hour earlier and I went and woke up the Admiral – she acknowledged and little to my knowledge fell asleep again. I went to bed only realizing 10 minutes later that she had fallen asleep. I awoke again startling her by saying “we will miss our flight” – in a mad rush we got ready and after a cup of tea with uncle got into a cab, destination airport.

The flight back was fun, with one leg covered by just watching the movie Jodha Akbar, which covered all the historical places we had covered. Both the admiral and I decided not to sleep and tried to cram as much viewing in as possible. Landing in Melbourne RedEyed.

India, a motherland I can not leave behind, a country full of love, hospitality and a heap of traffic.

At the end of epic adventure, I have learnt more then one can imagine, about history, people, life and different lands. I Have learn about Myself and I have learnt about my travel companion, the Admiral. I have grown as a person, with thousands more experiences and unforgettable memories. Aside form the craziness and epic adventures this trip like my others have been a life changing experience.

“Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention to arrive safely in a pretty and well preserved body; but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming ‘Wow! What a ride!’”
– Hunter S. Thompson

Signing out until my next adventure – Captain