Seoul – South Korea

They arrived at the mall and made their way towards the aquarium, passing all the fancy shops and vendors along the way. By the time they reached the aquarium, all of the morning's frustrations were forgotten. The Cadet was in his element, completely mesmerized by the fish, turtles, and manatees. He couldn’t resist mimicking the slow, deliberate movements of the turtles and the graceful gliding of the manatees. But then, in a moment of pure curiosity, he decided to lick the floor of the aquarium. The consequences of this decision were yet to be seen.
After the aquarium, they walked around the mall, with the Admiral growing increasingly agitated as the shops were closing, worried they wouldn’t find a place for dinner. Meanwhile, the Captain was determined to explore all options before settling on a spot. They eventually decided on a cozy Japanese restaurant where the Cadet was happily situated. The Admiral enjoyed some delicious sushi and nigiri, while the Captain enjoyed a comforting pizza at the place next door.
As they stepped outside leaving the warmth of the mall, along with the cold winds they were greeted by a massive statue of two hands, a tribute to the famous Gangnam Style song by Psy. Despite the cold and the rain, the Captain couldn't resist the urge to perform the iconic dance as the song played on a nearby screen. It was an impromptu moment of joy that added a little extra fun to the day.
Finally, they took a taxi home, exhausted but content from the day’s adventures. Tomorrow would bring something entirely different—a visit to the DMZ

They woke up early for the DMZ trip, but the Cadet was not happy—he wanted nothing more than to sleep a little longer. Despite his protests, they got ready and left. The cold that greeted them was even more intense than the day before, though at least it wasn’t raining. As soon as they opened the door, the icy blast hit them. They bundled up and made their way to the station, arriving just in time to catch the train. They grabbed breakfast—iced coffees, a black coffee, and some chocolate sticks—and boarded the train.

They got off at Unjung Station, where they were set to meet the Captain's old school friend and comrade, Major Haiyoung, along with his family. It had been over 15 years since they last saw each other, when the Major had moved back to Korea after studying alongside the Captain from primary school all the way through year 9. It was surreal to see him again, now with his beautiful family. They disembarked from the platform and made their way to the street, where the Major and his family were waiting in a van. After exchanging hugs and greetings, they jumped into the vehicle, where hand warmers were handed out to help them battle the freezing cold. With the squad now reunited, they drove off, the journey continuing with a sense of nostalgia and warmth amidst the chill..
They drove to the DMZ, with Major Haiyoung sharing stories about his life in Korea and his travels, including a hilarious tale about how he broke his hand in London. The drive was filled with laughter and reminiscing as they all looked forward to the visit.
Upon arriving at the DMZ, they lined up among many other visitors to get their tickets. Once inside, they made their way to a café upstairs where they shared their first meal together. The Cadet immediately hit it off with the Major's beautiful kids, who were incredibly kind and took great care of him.
They picked an assortment of baked goods and coffee to enjoy while they relaxed and chatted. Just as they were settling in, Aida had a delightful surprise: she bumped into an old friend from Melbourne whom she hadn’t seen in many years. It was a moment of serendipity, adding a special touch to the day
As soon as they finished their baked goods, the bus arrived, signaling it was time to board and continue their journey. After a brief wait, they went through passport checks and were assigned military escorts to guide them into the DMZ. They continued along the roads looking at the isolated landscapes outside, places abandoned years ago.

The drive took them to the tunnels, located 73 meters underground. They were then led to a monorail, which carried them 300 meters into the heart of the tunnels. Equipped with helmets, they walked through the narrow passageways, carefully navigating the underground maze.

Along the way, they hit their heads several times due to the low ceilings, but the experience was thrilling. They eventually made their way to the North Korean side of the tunnels, crossing under the border where the two countries met. It was a surreal moment, standing just feet away from a place so historically significant, yet so distant from the everyday lives they knew.

After exploring the tunnels, they boarded the bus once again and headed up to the top of a mountain for a breathtaking view of the border. As they reached the peak, snow began to fall, adding a layer of surreal beauty to the already tense and historic landscape. Through binoculars, they could make out a sign across the border that read, "Our leader is the best," along with a propaganda village that, as the guide explained, was completely fake—designed to project an image of prosperity to outsiders. The tour continued with a couple of other activities, where they learned about the complex history of the DMZ and its significance in the broader context of the Korean conflict.
Finally, it was time to return. They boarded the bus once more, heading back to the starting point where they went through another round of passport checks before being allowed to leave the DMZ. The experience had been eye-opening, a mix of awe, history, and reflection, as they left behind a place that had witnessed so much tension and change.
After leaving the DMZ, the group headed back to Seoul for lunch, where they were treated to a traditional minari-style meal—delicious, hearty, and comforting. The flavors were rich, and it was a welcome break after the cold, historical experience they had just gone through.
Next, they embarked on a drive to the Blue House, the official residence of the President of South Korea. They made it just in time for their visit, marveling at the grand architecture and historical significance of the place. However, things took a turn when the Cadet, feeling restless after a day full of new experiences, went a bit feral. Once inside the presidential office, his curiosity led him to explore a bit too enthusiastically, prompting security to step in and retrieve him. It was a brief but chaotic moment, much to the amusement (and slight embarrassment) of the Admiral and Captain.
After a full day of adventure at the DMZ, the Major and his family kindly dropped them back near their hotel. They decided to visit a small Korean eatery nearby for a cozy, local dinner. The meal was a delightful end to the day, with hearty, comforting dishes that hit the spot after all the travel and excitement.
On their way back to the hotel, they made a stop at Bricksand, a charming butter cake shop known for its delicious baked treats. They picked up some sweet goodies to take back with them, adding a little extra sweetness to their evening. The walk back to the hotel was a peaceful one, as they reflected on the incredible day spent exploring the DMZ, meeting old friends, and enjoying the rich history and culture of Korea
The next day, they woke up a little later than planned, but excitement was still in the air as they were set to meet Major Haiyoung and his family again. The cold was biting that morning, with temperatures reaching -4°C, and the wind cut through their coats as they headed out.
They made a quick stop for coffee, hoping the warmth would help shake off the chill, but the Admiral began to feel a sharp ear pain from the cold winds. She gritted through it, though, as they made their way to the bus stand.
As they arrived, the Cadet, already feeling the exhaustion and frustration of the cold, had a meltdown. His cries echoed as they waited for the bus, and things didn’t seem to be looking up. The double-decker bus they had been waiting for finally pulled up, but the Cadet continued to cry, visibly upset by the whole situation. The crew could only hope that the bus ride and the day ahead would help turn his mood around.
They finally arrived at the destination and settled into a cozy coffee shop, where they waited for Major Haiyoung and his family to join them. The Captain, in his usual playful way, ordered an affogato for the Admiral, keeping her guessing as to what it was—just another small bit of fun amidst the chilly morning.
Once the Major and his family arrived, they all headed to a Play Center which may have been the National Science Museum. The Cadet, full of energy, ran around with excitement, exploring the museum's various exhibits. He particularly enjoyed the standard museum displays but had a habit of running off and getting lost, much to the Admiral's frustration as she tried to keep track of him.
The highlight for the Cadet was when he found a section where he could dress up in various outfits. He was absolutely delighted to try on different dresses and costumes, posing and twirling in front of the mirrors. Meanwhile, the Major’s boys found a climbing area and eagerly began scaling the walls. It was a fun, active day for everyone, each child enjoying something different, but all coming together for some family fun.
After a fun morning at the play centre, the group headed to a nearby restaurant for lunch. They were treated to a delicious meal of Kalguksu—a traditional Korean knife-cut noodle dish. The noodles were freshly cooked right at the table, adding an interactive element to the meal. It was a hearty, comforting dish, full of flavor. To follow it up, they enjoyed some fried rice, which complemented the noodles perfectly, that were cooked in the same pot. Everyone was delighted by the warm, savory dishes, and it was a welcome break from the cold outside.

After lunch, the group made their way to a traditional folk village, just a few minutes away. The Cadet, exhausted from all the excitement, passed out in the pram. He slept peacefully for over an hour while the Major’s boys playfully poked and pinched his cheeks, dutifully pushing the pram along. The village was a living history lesson, with displays of folk architecture, blacksmiths forging tools, mask painters creating intricate designs, and flute players adding a melodious atmosphere. It was like stepping back in time.
They visited an old-timey jail, where the Captain got a “paddling,” then headed to an amusement park nearby. Aida and the Captain ventured into a horror house, braving the spooky scares. Meanwhile, the Cadet woke up, a bit disoriented, and unfortunately, took a tumble and bumped his head. There was some crying, causing the Major and his wife to stress, but the Cadet had had many bumps in the past and eventually calmed down. He even managed to enjoy a few rides after settling his nerves.
As the day came to a close, the Cadet grew tired again and started to flip out from the cold. Concerned, the Major ran to the car to warm him up. After the final farewells, which were bittersweet, the Captain and Admiral were extremely grateful for the time spent with the Major and his family. They would miss their new friends, and the Cadet would definitely miss the company of the Major’s kids.
The Major sent them off with parting gimbap (Korean rice rolls) and warm hugs. They dashed to catch the bus, barely making it without paying the fare. Unfortunately, they missed their stop, so they had to walk back. Just as they were about to reach their destination, someone scolded them for not using the elevator. So, they ended up walking for what felt like an eternity to find the wrong elevator. Realizing the mistake, they had to walk back and finally use the escalator with the pram.
They were promptly scolded by another person, but luckily, they managed a slow getaway as their escalator was going up while the other person's was going down. After that ordeal, they grabbed some more food and headed home, exhausted but entertained by the series of small misadventures that had unfolded, they finally reached back home.
Determined to make the most of his last night in Seoul, the Captain decided to set out on a solo adventure to Myeongdong, leaving the Admiral and Cadet behind to rest. Braving the biting cold, he ventured outside and began the 40-minute walk toward his destination, departing the house around 8:00 p.m.
After a few wrong turns and nearly an hour of navigating, he stumbled upon the bustling heart of the Myeongdong Night Market. It was the largest night market he had ever encountered—an endless maze of alleyways lit up with dazzling lights and filled with vendors.
Eager to soak in the experience, the Captain indulged in a feast of street food, sampling okonomiyaki, gyoza, fried chicken, japchae, grilled corn slathered with butter and Korean spices, chicken kebabs, and refreshing pomegranate juice. Along the way, he discovered a quirky "almond store," which felt like the Toys “R” Us of almond-related goods, packed with nut-themed novelties and snacks.
Satisfied and slightly overwhelmed by the sheer vibrancy of the market, the Captain began the long walk back home, logging over 30,000 steps by the end of his journey. Upon returning, he enthusiastically recounted his night market escapades to the Admiral, sharing tales of the sights, smells, and flavors of Myeongdong. Exhausted but fulfilled, he passed out shortly afterward, concluding his final night in Seoul.
The time had come to leave Korea and head to India. The Cadet, however, had other plans, declaring he wanted to stay in Korea. After much cajoling, he was finally convinced to join the them for their onward journey.
The squad made their way to the train station and then to the airport, where they breezed through priority check-in. It was a surprisingly painless process—except for the Cadet screaming at precisely the wrong (or right, depending on your perspective) moments. The Captain and Admiral made a tactical move to spend their remaining Korean won on food, ensuring minimal financial losses and maximum stomach gains. Amidst the frenzy, the Cadet promptly poured out his orange juice. By this point, the parents were too exasperated to react.
Finally, it was time to board. The Cadet was a ball of energy, jumping up and down with excitement, before crashing hard and falling asleep shortly after takeoff. The Admiral, however, had reached her breaking point and ordered a vodka to soothe her nerves.
As the Cadet slept soundly for about three hours, the Captain discovered that his in-flight screen wasn’t working. Resigned, he leaned over to share the Admiral’s screen. Meanwhile, the Cadet decided the airplane seat wasn’t quite his vibe and made himself comfortable on the floor, much to the bemusement of nearby passengers.
When the Cadet eventually woke up, he became the life of the cabin, charming passengers and inviting them all over to his house for a game of cards. An elderly Korean lady was so taken by his charisma that she handed him a candy, which he gleefully accepted. It wasn’t until he tried it that his parents realized it was a coffee-flavored lolly. The Cadet’s reaction? Priceless.
It was a chaotic yet memorable journey, as the family hurtled toward the next chapter of their adventure in India.