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Hanoi. Vietnam

Hanoi. Vietnam

Hanoi. Vietnam

The South East Asian gem hidden in a within a Tungsten North

Captains Log Day 4 – 18/03/17 8:26 am. Jetstar Flight BL791.

The residue of a four-day bender was stuck to the Captain like a well-crafted Gỏi cuốn (
Vietnamese rice paper roll). The hangover, thirty years in the making was dealt out as a result of a three-day long celebration, filled with love, friends, and a whole heap of decisions that the body was now regretting.
The early morning alarm buzzed, it was not required, the sandman had forgotten to visit or had gotten lost in the aftermath. The Captain softly tapped the Admiral on the shoulder, the three-day blur of celebrations was just about to get extended as the travelling duo were about to embark on another adventure to the unknown, this time it was the land of the Dragon and a visit to the Khmer empire.

Transport had arrived, however the Admiral had to make one quick stop to her place as she had overlooked to take a key piece of documentation, her passport. The journey had begun, as we took our first flight to KL, followed by a flight to Ho-Chi-Minh and lastly to reach our final destination, Hanoi. The travel time for the journey was, eighteen hours, with twelve hours of flight time and the remaining time spent in stopovers. The grand hangover and missing the sandman the previous few nights meant that, the twelve hours spent flying was consumed by a zombie like sleep. With delays and transit (and the hour-long taxi ride from the airport) the Captain was able to check into the residence at one in the morning. The residence for this leg, was a room that smelt so heavily of paint that both the Admiral and Captain were getting mild headaches from the scent, however with the fatigue, we continued our chroming and decided to adapt to the fumes. The exhaustion that came from the flights and stopovers (as well as the possible high from the fumes), there was not a chance that Admiral or the Captain was going to undertake any adventures for the night. The first night in Hanoi rather was spent establishing contact with Co-Captain and his first lieutenant who were also visiting the city.

Early morning once again the Captain’s eyes opened as the sun shone through the very freshly painted window, it was time to execute a plan of action for the day’s activities. he quickly contacted the co-captain and organised a meeting point. After some drama with an absent-minded (noob) tour organiser we had a private car to take us to the beautiful Ha Long bay for the day.

Reuniting with the first lieutenant and the co-captain at their hotel we all boarded a vessel and set forth to how long day. This is also the moment that we met our dizzy car driver. We still don’t know his name, although he started yelling when the Nguyen Song came on (must be his favorite). The remainder of the four-hour drive to Ha Long bay consisted of carpool karaoke between the co-captain and the driver of traditional Vietnamese songs, that were blaring over the car stereo throughout the journey – at this point it is important to note that the co-captain does NOT speak any Vietnamese. To add some further excitement to the journey some random points the dizzy driver grabbed the co-captain’s leg and squeezed it, once again there was no warning or precursor to this action. Later in the journey the co-captain got his revenge and also grabbed the driver’s leg without warning. The reason is still not known to any other passengers in the car. Another interesting moment was when the co-captain asked the driver to stop for a toilet break, since the dizzy driver did not understand English google translate was used, this resulted in shouting war between the co-captain and driver. We also did not stop for another twenty minutes. Once again reasons unknown to all in the car.
After many intimate moments between the dizzy driver and co-captain and stopping at a pearl factory, the party finally reached Ha Long Bay. Here we quickly were ushered onto a boat with another tour and fed some very extravagant (but bland) lunch on a private table, as the boat went along island rocks. Meanwhile our Dizzy driver somehow made it to the top of the boat and the boat Captain had to stop and come over to ask him to get down. The party then spent the day cruising the bay, going on a bamboo boat and visiting some caves, we also had a tour guide commentary explaining how some of the rocks we passed looked like animals or objects. “look Scooby doo rock!”. We came to the realization that whoever named these rocks were on some serious amount of special Pho. Soon after exploring the caves it was time to bid the bay, g’day and return back to our dizzy driver.

The journey back was even more exciting and although our driver was not grabbing the co-captains leg he was busy piloting our ride through some local highway traffic. There were moments when we were a few centimeters off hitting someone, or going head on into a truck/bus. The music continued to blare and the Nguyen song, motivated Mr Dizzy like never before. Finally, we made it back to Hanoi City.
A quick freshen up and we regrouped at a very fancy, but delicious restaurant suggested by the co-captain – Madame Hien. Here the food was fantastic, until the raw chicken came to the table, the chicken was so raw that we could hear it cock-o-doodling. The Captain explained how it was raw, however the staff insisted that is medium and red, like the duck we had ordered. It was a struggle to explain why pink chicken = bad. It was fine in the end, they decided to replace it, new chicken…. Also pink. Game over, and although the rest of the courses and the cocktails were fantastic, it was time to say goodbye and hope that the next few hours alcohol consumption killed the salmonella that was breeding in our stomachs. We headed to another bar and sat and drank until the Admiral fell asleep on the table, an indication that it was time to go. We said our farewells, as we were greeted by a street rat, and walked back to our hotels.

The next morning, the slight hangover shone its ugly head, we quickly got ready and met up with the co-captain and first-lieutenant in search for shoes and a shirt for the wedding which was on later in the day. We visited a huge market, in search for the co-captain’s shoes, and as we approached every store the storekeepers looked at the co-captain, looked down at his feet and signaled us to move on, others shook their heads and said “Too BIIG, Too BIIG”, we later found out the largest sizes these shoes had was a size nine, far too small for the co-captain. The Captain was fortunate to find a shirt for the wedding without issue, however the search for the shoes continued, as the time was running out. after visiting a few malls, we were able to find an Aldo that stocked the right sizes. Rushing we headed back, got ready and made it just in time for the traditional ceremony of Ray and Linh. Surrounded by family the simple giving away of the daughter, was emotional and heartfelt. We made some new friends and coordinated some drinks before the reception was to begin. This is when things got a little too messy. Conversation, laughs got the better of us and three long island ice-teas at an English pub later, we were stumbling out and heading to our hotels to change for the wedding. The Captain took this opportunity to hydrate as much as possible in order to survive the night.
The reception was grand. It was like the Oscars, red carpet, crystal, spotlights even a catwalk was set up – the MC announced the wedding couple and then the onslaught of food started, course after course this was going to be a big feed. Trying his best not to slur and hoping all the water he had drank started taking an effect, the Captain nibbled on the food. This is when the Vodka glistened on the table as the waiter dropped off three bottles, and a heap of shot glasses. Using the Lazy Susan in a very efficient way, the Co-Captain loaded the shots for the table. This continued for the next few hours until 2 bottles were gone and so were half the people there. Realizing it was our cue to leave, we finished up, and made a plan to regroup again after we got changed and ready for a night out. Not long after the Captain heard the distress calls from the bathroom, as he felt the vibration in his pocket. It was the First Lieutenant, sending out a beacon that the Co-Captain was in trouble. The Captain rushed to the bathroom, and found one of the cubicles locked with a grunting bear like noise coming from inside. It was the Co-Captain. As the Captain tried to knock, there would be no response. At this point the Captain went to the cubicle next door, climbed the toilet seat, only to see vomit EVERYWHERE! The Co-Captain looked up and both burst out in a fit of laughter. The Co-Captain used the water hose to clean the regurgitated food and they both emerged from the toilet triumphant.
Following this debacle and with the wedding reception over, they all parted ways to go back to their abodes to change and then head out. We all made a pact to meet up again after we changed into civilian clothes. The Admiral and Captain went home, changed and then made a quick detour to 4ps Pizza for a snack – This place was amazing. Better pizza than most in Melbourne. Scoffing down our meals we met up with the crew later at a bar. At this point the Captain tried to reach out to the Co-Captain, but hope was lost. He was not in good shape.
The remaining troops were out in full force later joined by the bride and groom, the crew were drinking, smoking sheesha and having a big night, we bounced from one bar (Bar Prague) when it shut to Club Theater, for some dancing. As time went on some of the troops thinned out leaving a core group. This was only disbanded when the last remaining club switched on the lights. The Wedding day was over, and the Admiral and Captain headed back towards home, making a quick pit stop for some random street burritos and nachos.

Fighting to open his eyes, the Captain awoke to a warm room, meaning that it was afternoon time, his head was still pounding from the music from the night before. His aging body was not used to this. The Admiral and Captain moved at slug speed to get ready and head out of the hotel. The Co-Captain and First Lieutenant, had departed to Hong Kong, meaning that day would be dedicated to sight-seeing and exploration. Struggling out of bed first destination was Giang Café, the Captain and Admiral had been recommended to try the local famous egg coffee, and Giang was famous for being the best. Creeping down an ally way they found a hidden café, bustling with people- here they were able to try the egg coffee, it was like a condensed milk latte with an egg on top, although as a thought it was strange, the drink tasted awesome. Leaving on a caffeine high and able to process basic directions next was the lake of the returned sword. Here the Captain and Admiral crossed a river bridge and went to temple in which resided a giant turtle statue. Starving from the adventure and the hangover kicking in the temple was followed by lunch at a Lotteria, a fast food chain initially recommended, which turned out to be terrible fried goop. Later as the Captain and Co-captain were walking they got grabbed by Major Matt and commander Jess, who joined them on the expedition for the day. First up for the awesome foursome was the Hoa la Jail – a restored prison that was a benchmark example of Vietnamese torture and pain – it was so bad that in irony the USA named it the Hanoi Hilton. It was a political prison where the prisoners were held, interrogated, tortured and killed, The Captain & Major marveled at the guillotine and the beheadings it had carried out as eerie music played. All this pain had our appetite restored and the squad headed to the French district for some pastries and cake. Just as the cake finished up the night market opened its doors – we walked the streets for kilometers, searching for bargains and getting hassled – the Major was able to pick up some Anime figures that he was looking for, the Admiral was in wonderland, hypnotized by bargains and the variety. The never-ending market continued on, however the squadron headed back, as it was time for the Water Puppet show. Hard to describe. Water puppet show is just that, a semi submerged theater of puppets, with music and a whole lot of “no idea what is going on” – highly recommended. The show ended up and the appetite was restored, we headed to the gourmet corner a restaurant recommended by a person at our hotel. Upon entering the place looked mega fancy, heading to the rooftop even more so. The food was nice, however when the Captain complained that the Coq au Vin had too much wine (lol), the staff rushed over to offer a discount. Service was impeccable. Finishing up Dinner we bid farewell to our friends and headed back for a few hours of shut eye till our flight down the delta to the South.

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Ho Chi Minh. Vietnam

Ho Chi Minh. Vietnam

Ho Chi Minh. Vietnam

The city of resistance, defeating the enemies till they were Sai’gone.

Captains Log Day 6 – 20/03/17 9:45 am. Cambodia Air K6 809.

WARNING – This entry contains Food Posts.

Several Hanoi’ng delays later, the Captain and Admiral landed in the city of Ho Chi Minh, instantly throwing off their jackets and attempting to acclimatise to the raging heat, unlike the rainy and cold North, the South side of the country was sweltering. The bustling airport flooded with people and like the weather, it was a contrast to Hanoi. Hailing a cab, we rushed to the airport to check in and commence exploring, we had to make up for lost flight time.

It was not long till the Captain and his sidekick were on the streets, the morning rush had them tinkering for some quick eats (Warned you) – we headed to a renowned eatery in the district called Propaganda. Hipster alert. This place was hip. It was a nice Vietnamese cafe, it looked like it had fallen out the Melbourne hipster manual and had been teleported from Brunswick. Over ordering as usual, we gulped down on some absolutely delicious food – the Admiral had finally gotten Pho in Vietnam and was in a very happy place, likewise the Captain was Banh’ing hard. Once the feast was over the Captain warned the Admiral that the place next on the agenda was not for the faint hearted, with a worried look on her face she accompanied the Captain to the War remnants’ museum.
Much like the previous visit of the Captain, the eeriness and sadness was evident in everything held in the premises. After doing the tourist thing and posing with the tanks and planes, it was time to be educated on the horrors that took place in the region.
What followed was history lesson 101 and a devastating realisation of all the terrible things that mankind is possible of inflicting on others. There were points in this visit where both the Captain and Admiral teared up, overwhelmed with sadness and disgust. Words cannot describe this place and the stories that lay within. Would recommend anyone that visits the city to go here and read, learn and share stories with friends.
Walking out of the museum we held a strong sense of respect for the people that were involved in such hard times. With doom and gloom on our minds and some heavy discussion topics we decided to walk straight to Ben Thanh Market to get our minds off things. We stopped at a Hindu temple and said a small prayer for what we had seen, we prayed for the families and thanked god for our blessings.
Still freaked out the Admiral was on a google spree to ensure that we were not poisoned by Agent Orange. We reached the market and to our disappointment, the market was overpriced – after visiting the Hanoi markets, the Captain was put off and the amount of bargaining he would need to do to get even the smallest thing – not worth the trouble. The Admiral and Captain left the market abruptly and headed home for a swim in the Jacuzzi Pool. WTF is a Jacuzzi pool you ask? (I had NFI what it was) – it is a Spa with a small swimming area that has water which pushes you back as you swim towards it. Reminded the Captain of a carrot on a string in front of the horse.
After finishing up a never-ending swim and doing a TON of laundry, the mission was to find out where the cloths can hang to dry, the Captain felt like a Megastructures engineer attempting to come up with locations. As our room felt like a humidifier due to the wet cloths, we got dressed and headed to our first fancy dinner for the trip Eon51 restaurant.
Located on the 51st floor of the Bitexco Financial Tower, this fine dining restaurant came with a side of breath-taking views of HCMC. The Admirals treat for the Captain’s aging 30th birthday. Although there was a slight disagreement with the waiter about customising the set menu/ adding alcohol to a mocktail, the dinner was just amazing – the photos of the meals or the view don’t do any justice.
Rolling out of the restaurant, we felt that the lift would break due to over inflated bellies. As a last bit effort to find some affordable shopping we found Hanh Thong Tay Market, which was located 40 minutes away from the dinner current location. Ordering an uber we tracked it as it broke at least four road rules to reach us. Once in, it was a race against time, pushing hard to reach the market before it shut shop, arriving just in time to see the shutters close. The inner drive got the better of us and we decided to explore. Being the only foreigners, this seemed to be a local market, as we walked around, the vibe started changing “from ‘buy everything’ to a ‘stab and rob’ vibe hoping not to die we quickly hailed a cab and headed back to safety.

The second day started with the Admiral and Captain stuffing their faces with some breakfast, followed by packing some lunch for our day ahead. They headed downstairs where the Cu Chi Tunnels Tour Bus was waiting, we were the last pickup and the bus was waiting for 15 minutes (opps). Off we went to explore the elaborate 250 KM of tunnels in which the resistance forces fought the corrupt and evil government. We shared the bus with some very interesting people, two couples from Australia, a couple Spain and a very disgruntled American ex-tennis player named Bob.
The tour was crazy, since the captains last venture to HCMC 5 years ago, the crowds had increased at least 10-fold. the crowds combined with the heat resulted in a very unbearable tour of the tunnels, nonetheless the Admiral was resilient as she ventured into the 80cm by 100 cm wide tunnel network, going through like a mole, she completed the course. The tunnels complete it was the Captains favorite part – the Shooting. Although none of the tour participants except the Captain and Admiral opted to go to the range, the Captain was keen, picking his weapon of choice the AK47 they headed to the Very loud shooting range. Concerned and worried the Admiral selected the M60 machine gun. BANG BANG – some rounds were shot. A frazzled and concerned Admiral appeared, disgusted at how easy it is to inflict evil with such weapons. Finishing up a the tunnels the bus was loaded, everyone except Bob passed out as we headed to the Mekong delta two hours away for the second part of the tour.
The Captain had reached new waters – the Mekong Delta. The second longest river in the world, bordered by rice fields that produce 7 million tons of rice a year. The Captain in his element jumped on a boat led by the pirate tour guide, on the Boat the squad of tourists and Bob crossed the Mekong and landed at Unicorn Island. On the Island a few things happened including, Drinking Bee honey tea, made from Queen bee honey and Bee Pollen, holding the bees that made the honey, manhandling a random Python, Python almost strangling the Captain as other noob tourists had pissed it off, eating some random local fruits, drinking Pandan tea, Local fisherman girl singing ‘if your happy and you know it’, a golf cart ride in which the Captain tried to bargain to drive the golf cart, visiting a coconut candy factory and finally a bamboo boat ride down a small river canal with Bob. With that the tour ended and we boarded our three hour bus ride back to the hotel. The bus ride was spent interrogating Bob, genuinely another Pirate, unfortunately not much was found out, except that he travels the world, doesn’t work, was born in Congo and grew up in Egypt, he almost got gored by bulls in Spain and that Pat Cash got Gift Cards when he won Wimbledon – the Admiral was passed out so she missed out on the interesting story time
After getting home and getting changed, the Captain and Admiral headed to our second exciting dinner for the trip – this was going to be at Noir – Dining in the Dark.
This my friends was an experience never to forget – Arriving at the restaurant, we were greeted by friendly staff and offered a page in which the menu was described. The menu had details about the flavours but not what we were going to eat. Soon after selecting which set menu we would like (veg – western) as well as what we would like to drink, a deaf and mute waiter came over and handed us a puzzle and a blind fold. This was a test to what was to come. Both the admiral and captain struggled as they tried to complete the puzzle with the blindfold. Shortly after we were briefed about how the room will be (Pitch Dark) and what to do if you feel overwhelmed i.e close your eyes etc. Then a blind waitress came and introduced herself. She was to be our waiter for the night and she was totally blind. We were escorted up the stairs hand on shoulder into a pitch-black room, the blind waitress explained where everything on the table was and left. At first the Captain was overwhelmed and thought he was seeing things, but after a while things got better and he was able to start exploring with his hands, the cutlery, the glasses. The meals started coming out – four dishes at a time, the Admiral and Captain spent time describing what they tasted and the flavours. Often the Admiral had her spoon upside down and the Captain ended up with food on his cloths, but the experience was AMAZING. The food had complex flavours that were really hard to guess, but kept us on our toes. Once the Meal ended, the beautiful waitress escorted us out, an hour and a half after being in pitch darkness, the light made us dizzy. Slowly we came back to reality as a waited came over and started explaining what we ate. Some of our guesses were a fair bit off, some very accurate, the food was delicious and the experience unforgettable. Finishing up we headed to the night market for some final shopping before retreating to our hotel for our final sleep in HCMC and getting ready for our TEMPLE RUN in Cambodia the next day.

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Siem Reap. Cambodia

Siem Reap. Cambodia

Siem Reap. Cambodia

The Holy city of Temples, Tuk-Tuk’s and Traveler troubles – Mad Floors and shiz.

Captains Log Day 8 – 22/03/17 10:55 pm. Malaysia Air MH146

The Captain was able to connect back into the grid just before his HCMC departure, lucky enough he did so as he was able to discover that he had received a last-minute email from the hotel that Admiral and he were staying at. The email advised them that the residence was over booked and despite my two-month advanced booking we were going to be moved to the sister hotel that was located 10 minutes away from the venue. This deeply upset both the Admiral and Captain, they had no option, with an angry email to the hotel, they confirmed that they had been shifted and that a carrier would be sent to pick them up at the Airport. However, upon landing there was no receiver waiting. Blood boiling to match the temperature outside, the Captain and Admiral took a TukTuk or remork to the updated hotel discussing remork life, and how we would sell our cars in Australia and just sponsor a remork driver to live with us and drive us around, despite the laughter they both knew that their Cambodian travels had begun on a rocky start.
At the new hotel, one could not get angry at the staff, it was not their fault, management had dealt the card to the Captain and the staff were only doing their job. Despite some initial tension, the staff escorted us to our room, they were apologetic in regards to the transport not being present and offered to compensate by offering complementary transportation on departure.

Although upset, the Admiral and Captain checked into the hotel and freshened up. They had organised a deal with the TukTuk driver to take them straight to the mighty Angkor Wat – The reason both the Captain and Admiral had decided to visit Cambodia. Geography Lesson #1: What is Angkor Wat? – “Angkor Wat is a temple complex in Cambodia and the largest religious monument in the world, with the site measuring 162.6 hectares (1,626,000 m2; 402 acres). It was originally constructed as a Hindu temple of god Vishnu for the Khmer Empire, gradually transforming into a Buddhist temple towards the end of the 12th century” – thanks Wikipedia.

A visit to Angkor Wat had been on the Captain’s bucket list for a significantly long time – He had dreamed of visiting the ruins ever since he had seen photographs and discovered in a year 8 quiz that it’s the largest Hindu temple in the world (not sure if his incorrect answer stemmed his desire or the sheer curiosity.)
Grabbing tickets, we were taken away from the city to visit the ruins, thus started our temple run. The hot sun blaring on our backs, sizzling our skin crispy, sweat creating puddles across our bodies we ventured out of the TukTuk. Walking through the gates of the Great Angkor Wat gave the captain goosebumps, the surreal feeling overwhelming. Hypnotized by the grandeur of the ruins we tread towards the entry. With barely any sales pitch we agreed to the first tour guide that approached us, after waiting his life the Captain had not had the patience to bargain or discuss price. The tour began, explaining the history of the king and the kingdom that built this temple, the wars that were fought over it and the transition of it from a Hindu temple to Buddhist. We walked around half engaged, our minds just marveling at the greatness of the ruins. Photos don’t do this justice. The Captain and Admiral got blessed and their futures told by a Buddhist monk and shortly after the tour ended. This is where one of the favorite parts of the tour for the Captain commenced. Free Roam. We were allowed to walk around the temple, explore the giant grounds, climb, run, walk, anything. It was great – the Captain gave the Admiral a heart attack when he walked on the ledge of the third storey of the temple. The heat starting to play games on their minds, the Admiral was pointing out a structure to the Captain, to which the heat stroked Captain responded “Yeah, Mad Floors and Shit” – not knowing what he was saying. The Admiral pointed out his poetic comment, meaning it was time for the delusional captain to farewell the temple grounds. Walking back to the TukTuk was a mission. The 400-meter path felt like kilometers in the dessert being crossed by Bedouins. Struggling and finally reaching the TukTuk we stopped for some cold refreshments before continuing our temple run.
We then visited two other major temples and spent time exploring, the first was Bayon temple. The Bayon’s most distinctive feature is the multitude of serene and smiling stone faces on the many towers which jut out from the upper terrace and cluster around its central peak – once again this temple was huge. We walked the grounds posing for photos and trying to soak in the glory. After losing the TukTuk driver and doing a round of the perimeter, we finally got in the TukTuk for our third and final temple – Ta Phrom. unlike the other Angkorian temples, Ta Prohm was in much the same condition in which it was found: the photogenic and atmospheric combination of trees growing out of the ruins and the jungle surroundings. Trees and overgrowth over time had caused this ancient temple to collapse, although restoration works are underway the charm of this beast was the large collapsed rocks and the caved in rooms with roots weaving their way through them. Once again the wonder could not be captured, and if photos say a thousand words, being there and experiencing will write you novels. Temple’d out, we headed back to our hotel for some rest, the lack of sleep the night before, the scorching temperatures had the life of us drained.

Refreshed after a nap and shower, it was time for the Captain to enter his element as they got ready to hit up the famous Siem Reap Pub street for a night on the town. The street was full of activity, life, street traders, shops, music bars, the likes of which can only be compared to places like Khoa Sao road in Thailand, or a Portuguese Pub Crawl on NYE. Starving, the Captain thought it was best to get a drink in our systems before we ate, seemed logical right? There it was, Angkor What? Bar, a tourist landmark, famous for its writing on the walls, this place had seen millions of tourists over the years, it glistened on every travel guide. We stopped for a sneaky drink before we started our quest to try and find some burgers (craving) to eat. It seemed like forever before we found some food – mainly because the Captain was interested in exploring although the Admiral had different ideas which were showing (HUNGRY).
Bellies full we headed to some shops and some more exploring to burn off some of the carbs, it was at this point the Captain started getting restless as all the night owls came out to play. Finishing up with Shopping we headed straight back to Angkor What? Where a challenge tickled the fancy of the Captain, A deal that said if you get two alcoholic buckets you get a free tee-shirt. To test our limits however we ordered one bucket to start – a measly 6 x 50 ML shot – first up was a Moscow Mule. We shared this giant vessel of euphoric liquid and made friends with the amazing waiter @say – he had some great conversation with us and taught he Admiral some very cool bar tricks. One bucket in and that Tee-shirt was looking more achievable.

We ordered a second and asked our new friend @ say if we could get a tee- he pulled some strings and the mission was semi accomplished – the side effects sat on the table in front of us – a Vodka Mojito. We sipped on our oversized beverage and in the true spirt of the bar left a scripture on the table, this one a quote from the mighty Co-Captain @avrill “Never Say No! Mort!”.

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At this point to our realisation the club opposite to us – Temple Club, had filled up, dancing had commenced on the streets, we watched as the toxins took control of inhibition. As the mighty vessel reached the final drops, we ordered two more cocktails, of a much more reasonable size this time, although the Long Island Ice tea felt like it had much more concentration of alcohol.Feeling ill and the music taking control we headed across the road for a boogie, shortly inside the Admiral and Captains thoughts synchronized to “we are too old for this” leaving promptly we headed to Yolo Bar. Here things were going mental, the crowd in polar opposite to where we had been, A Backpacker hub, where people were dancing on the streets and madness was everywhere. Quickly the two were able to join the madness, it seemed that Mr Mule and Mrs Mojito had led us over the sanity fence and unwillingly we rushed to the other side. Dancing, singing with the others time began to fly and memories start to fade, at some point the Captain found himself at the bar with a tourist who bought him a Jagerbomb, the Captain obliged and out of respect downed the shot. Later in the night a person came over with a Barbequed Snake on a stick, laughing and dancing he took a bite and passed it to the Captain, confused, time slowed down as he took a fairly large chunk off the stick and started chewing. The taste was disgusting, the scales littered his mouth, the chewing didn’t seem to end as it was like eating rubber with a distinct taste, cringing he passed the stick to the Admiral. The look on the face of the Admiral said it all – HELL NO! after some drunk banter and some convincing she took a tiny bite, chewing twice before spitting it out. almost vomiting we rushed her to the bar and ordered two Jagerbombs to wash the taste down, gagging as the warm Jager went down. Stumbling we left Yolo bar, and since it was too early to go home and wanted the snake magic to kick in we decided to head back for a final cocktail at Angkor What? again – bad idea. More Cocktails ordered – the Admiral had an Arm Wrestle with another tourist from Netherlands, the Captain made friends with Divers from Wales, the words came out as a slur. It was time to call it a night and head back to the Hotel.

The time was 3 am and with the insistent TutTuk drivers and an inkling that we may get sick – we decided to walk back to the hotel. This was a bad decision.
As we walked we saw some of our friends, they walked with us for a bit until they turned off and we continued through a dark laneway to our hotel. We were only 5 minutes from the Hotel where a man on a scooter approached the admiral on a motorbike slowed down and asked “would you like a lift?”, she responded “No No” at this point he snatched her Purse, yanking it, breaking her straps and riding off. The Admiral yelled “Hay!!” the Captain was off, Chasing the bike, without knowing what happened screaming at the top of his lungs “OI, OI!!” too late, he sped off and turned the corner, the Admirals bag was gone. The contents included cash, her cards, her phone. We both praised the lords and the powers that be that her Passport was sitting at the hotel and was SAFE.
Distressed we ran to the Hotel where reception called the police and advised us that we need to go to the tourist police station in the morning when it opened. Defeated, drunk and stressed the Admiral spent the next two hours calling the banks and cancelling her cards, whilst at some point the Captain passed out.

Opening his eyes, the pain unbearable the Captain reached out for his medication, the last night’s toxins were in his system and his head felt like there was a jack hammer pounding inside. This was no ordinary hangover, he could feel the onset of a migraine creeping. Looking over he saw the Admiral passed out on the laptop. Taking his pills, he closed his eyes and slept once again. His eyes opened again as the clock hit 2 PM – he got up and woke the admiral who was ready to go, getting dressed quickly the duo left the hotel and rushed to the police to report the incident the night before. The Tourist police had us document our statement and then referred us on to the large tourist police station the other end of town, taking a TukTuk we rushed there as the clock creeped towards 5pm.
The tourist police station was a very traumatic experience. At first we were harassed as to why we didn’t come earlier (migraine) and then the conversation turned to why the Admiral did not fall over when her bag was snatched, the tone and constant implication that we were lying getting the better of us when we had an outburst and reached out to call the Embassy. We were encouraged to do so by the police, saying we are only doing our job, and that is what we will tell the embassy. However, we were told none of the phones had any credit – The Captain pointed out “but this is a police station?!” – my observation was acknowledged but no still the officers had no credit. We gave up, and continued our attempt to get a police report made.
The police explained how this was now a criminal case, they needed to contact local police and they, needed to have proof in order to make and release a police report. They need evidence that we were robbed and since our incident happened with no one around and no cameras this was going to be hard to prove. Deeply upset and defeated we documented our timings for the night, wrote down the incidents that happened and answered all their questions. Interrogation went on for 2 hours and at the end we were defeated. They did not release the police report and said they would be back tomorrow to the hotel to investigate. At this point we had very unexpected assistance from one police officer, however no report.
With no other options left we thanked the police officer that tried to help and headed back to town, hoping shopping will get our mind off things. It temporarily did. It was then time to visit the nicest restaurant in town, and one of the top restaurants in Asia – Cuisine Wat Damnak. This was a highly-regarded restaurant in Siem Reap celeb chef Joannes Riviere. The menu delivered the ultimate contemporary Khmer dining experience. This was fancy, the flavours and textures indescribable, fine dining at its best. The Chef Joannes, heard of our troubles the night before and was nice enough to come over and have a chat about the incident, he was charming and a very nice man. We both felt humbled, our hearts felt a little comfort in this unknown city. A last round of shopping and fulfilling the Captain’s Indian food craving at d’Tandoor, we headed back to stuff pack our bags and complete our final night in Siem Reap.
The adventure was almost over, as the Captain and Admiral parted ways, the former off back to base and the latter flying to Singapore to continue her adventure. The Captain was fortunate to have the business class experience during his flight stopping in KL and hitting up the b lounge for a shower and a casual 4 vodka sodas and few snacks.
Landing in the best city in the world, he was home. Arriving at 9:30am the captain was at work by 10:30am he reflected on his journey, his adventure overseas was over, he had survived another trip. He returned home with a few more notches on his belt and some scars to show for his travels. The Captain was ready and looking forward to his next adventure but at the moment he was running late to a meeting. He entered the room and said sampeah.